Crochet a pair of these cute and classic baby booties to welcome a new little one into the world! This free crochet pattern will teach you how to make soft and stretchy crochet booties that will be comfortable for baby to wear. These easy crochet baby booties are so cute, and make the perfect gift for a new baby girl or baby boy.
Reader’s Comment
Sarah, I absolutely love this crocheted bootie pattern. I’ve made dozens of them for my grandbabies, relatives, friends, baby showers. Different colors and sizes. They are easy and quick. Your instructions are very clear and thorough. I put my little homemade by Grammy G label on them, and I’ve got the perfect gift.
What Yarn to Use
When thinking about what type of yarn to use to make baby booties, choose something that is super soft, hypo-allergenic, and washable. Wool yarns can be too scratchy for babies’ soft skin. And cotton yarns tend to work up too stiff.
So, premium acrylic yarns are a great option for making crochet baby shoes. Yarn with a smooth, soft texture tends to be the best choice for babies.
Size Chart
As I’m sure you know, all babies grow at different rates. For the most accurate fit, see if you can measure your baby’s foot. Remember to add up to a half-inch of extra wiggle room in order to calculate the correct sole size.
To check your gauge, I recommend working up the entire sole section of the pattern and measuring its length. (The sole section is only 3 rounds, so it will go quickly!) That way, you’ll know if you need to go up or down a hook size.
| Age | Sole Size | Recommend Hook |
| Newborn | 3.5 | E/3.5mm |
| 0-3 Months | 3.75 | G/4mm |
| 3-6 Months | 4.25 | H/5mm |
| 6-12 Months | 4.75 | J/6mm |
Classic Baby Booties Crochet Pattern
Difficulty: Beginner to Easy
Finished Size: 3 months (3.75″ sole length) See the chart above for more sizes.
Materials
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (Category 4)
Crochet Hook: G/4mm hook to make a 3.75″ long bootie
You’ll also need:
- yarn needle
- stitch markers, if desired
- ruler or tape measure, if desired
Stitches and Abbreviations
- sl st – slip stitch
- st/sts – stitch/stitches
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together
- hdc2tog – half double crochet two stitches together
- dc2tog – double crochet two stitches together
- BLO – back loops only
Special Stitches
I find that regular hdc2tog stitches can look a little too bulky, especially for small projects like baby shoes. Here is a different way to make a half-double decrease in an invisible way.
If you are familiar with invisible single crochet decreases for amigurumi, this is similar.
Invisible HDC decrease:
Step 1: Yarn over.
Step 2: Insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch of the decrease.
Step 3: Insert the hook into the front loop of the next stitch of the decrease.
Step 4: Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on hook.
Step 5: Yarn over and draw through the last three loops on hook.
You can use this stitch whenever I call for a hdc2tog decrease in the pattern.
Pattern Notes
- This pattern is written in US/American terms.
- The sole and the upper section are written in joined rounds. (You will not turn the work in between rounds.)
- The cuff section is written in rows. (You will turn the work in between rows.)
- Use a stitch marker to mark your first stitch of the row/round.
- At the end of each round, join the round with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the same round.
- Chain 1 to begin a round. Chain 1 does not count as a stitch.
How to Read a Crochet Pattern
Crochet patterns are written using many abbreviations and terms, which save space and make patterns easier to read. Here are some tips:
- Unless the pattern indicates otherwise, assume that you move on to the next stitch. For example, “3 hdc” means to work 1 hdc into each of the next 3 stitches. If the pattern wants you to work 3 dc all into the same place, it will say “3 dc in next st”
- ( ) Parentheses are used to indicate a group of stitches that are to be worked together into a stitch.
- [ ] Brackets are used to tell you how many times to work a certain step. The number immediately following the brackets tells you how many times to do the step.
Sole Section
Round 1: Ch 10. In the second ch from the hook, make 2 hdc. 7 hdc. In the last ch, make 5 hdc. Continuing around the other side of the starting ch, make 7 hdc. Make 2 hdc in the last ch. Join with a sl st to the top of the first hdc. (23 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1. In the first st, make 2 sc. 2 sc in the next st. 4 sc, 3 hdc. 2 hdc in each of the next 5 sts. 3 hdc, 4 sc. 2 sc in each of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (32 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1. Starting in the first stitch, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 7 hdc, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 7 hdc, [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times. Join with a sl st to the top of the first hdc. (42 sts)
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Upper Section
The upper section is done in joined rounds. Each round will begin with a ch-1, which does not count as a stitch.
Important: Start each round by making the first crochet stitch into the same stitch as the slip stitch join, i.e. the first stitch of the round below. Continue around.
When you get to the end of the round, join to the first stitch with a slip stitch.
Here is a picture to illustrate the joins.
Round 4: Ch 1. (Does not count as a stitch here, or in the rounds that follow.) Hdc blo in the first st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to the top of the first hdc. (42 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in the first st and in each st around. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (42 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in the first st and in the next 10 sts, hdc, [hdc2tog, hdc] two times, [dc2tog, dc] three times, dc2tog, [hdc, hdc2tog] two times, hdc, 6 sc. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (34 sts)
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in the first st and in the next 12 sts, hdc, hdc2tog, 4 dc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc, 7 sc. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (28 sts)
Round 8: Ch 1, sc in the first st and in the next 11 sts, hdc, 4 dc2tog, hdc, 6 sc. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (24 sts)
Some readers have said they are having trouble with their decreases looking asymmetrical or off-center. Here are some suggestions:
- First, and most importantly, The first stitch of each round must be made in the first stitch – the same stitch as the ch-1.
- Second, be aware that the last stitch of Round 5 will be about 2-3 stitch lengths to the right of center. This is normal – the shifting seam is caused by the shape of crochet stitches – especially the hdc stitches. To compensate for the slanted seam, I’ve offset the decrease section in Round 6. This moves the decrease section over a few stitches so that the decreases line up exactly with the center midline of the sole.
Ribbed Cuff Section
The cuff section is worked in rows. Rows of back-loop single crochet create a flexible ribbing that you can fold down to make a cuff.
Note: The rows of ribbing are anchored to the previous round (“Upper” Round 8) by making a slip stitch at the start or end of the row.
Row 1: Ch 9. Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc 8. (8 sts)
Slip stitch into the next stitch of Round 8 of the Upper Section. The slip stitch anchors the row of single crochet you just made to the stitches from the last round of the bootie’s upper section.
Then, make another slip stitch into the next stitch of Round 8 of the Upper Section. This second slip stitch counts as the turning chain for the next row.
Row 2: Don’t chain 1, as the slip stitch you’ve just made counts as your turning chain. Rotate the bootie counterclockwise so that your working yarn crosses in front of your work. Pass the working yarn in front of your hook and to the back of your work. (See the picture above for clarification.)
Tip: I take this extra step of turning the work counterclockwise and passing the yarn in front of the hook to minimize a bump you can get when working this add-on ribbing technique.
Starting in the third stitch from your hook (remember, skipping over those two slip stitches) make 8 sc-blo.
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Starting in the second stitch from the hook, make 8 sc-blo. Slip stitch into the next stitch from “Upper” Round 8. Make another slip stitch into the next stitch from “Upper” Round 8.
Row 4, and all even rows: Follow directions from Row 2.
Row 5, and all odd rows: Follow directions from Row 3.
Finishing
When you have made 24 rows of ribbing, cut yarn and pull it through.
Leave a long tail of yarn and use it to seam the two ends of the ribbed cuff section.
And there you go, you’ve made adorable baby booties that any mom-to-be will love.
What’s Next?
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