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Classic Crochet Baby Booties with Folded Cuff – Free Pattern

Free pattern for how to crochet a cute and classic baby bootie with a ribbed, fold-down cuff. These baby booties are adorable, and the perfect handmade gift to bring to a baby shower.

Crochet Baby Booties Pattern

If you’ve ever wanted to make adorable crochet baby booties, this is the pattern for you. These baby boots have a stretchy ribbed cuff that you can either fold down or leave unfolded.

Plus, I’ll teach you how to add an easy single crochet ribbing to the booties without seaming.

Best Yarn for Baby Booties

Baby booties are such a special item, and I’m sure you want to choose the best yarn for this project.

When thinking about what type of yarn to use to make baby booties, choose something that is super soft, hypo-allergenic, and washable.

Wool yarns can be too scratchy for babies’ soft skin. And cotton yarns tend to work up too stiff.

Premium acrylic yarn with a smooth, soft texture tends to be the best choice for babies. To determine if your yarn is soft enough, rub it on your cheek or neck.

I choose to use a worsted weight yarn for this pattern. For these booties, I like Lion Brand Basic Stitch Premium. I’ve also used Caron Simply Soft, but find that I need to use a large hook to meet gauge. You can choose whatever brand you like best, as long as you check your gauge.

Cute Baby Shoes Pattern

I know a lot of people start learning crochet to make items for a new baby. When designing this pattern, I wanted to create an easy beginner-friendly baby bootie pattern that moms would love.

This is a simple, modern baby bootie pattern that is perfect to make for baby shower gifts, baby’s first Christmas, and other occasions. It’s a gender-neutral design that you can customize with your favorite color yarn.

Baby Booties Size Chart

As I’m sure you know, all babies grow at different rates. For the most accurate fit, see if you can measure your baby’s foot. Remember to add up to a half-inch of extra wiggle room in order to calculate the correct sole size.

To check your gauge, I recommend working up the entire sole section of the pattern and measuring its length. (The sole section is only 3 rounds, so it will go quickly!) That way, you’ll know if you need to go up or down a hook size.

AgeSole SizeRecommend Hook
Newborn3.5E/3.5mm
0-3 Months3.75G/4mm
3-6 Months4.25H/5mm
6-12 Months4.75J/6mm

Classic Baby Booties Crochet Pattern

Difficulty: Beginner to Easy

Finished Size: 3 months (3.75″ sole length) See the chart above for more sizes.

Materials

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (Category 4)

Hook:  G/4mm hook to make a 3.75″ long bootie

You’ll also need: 

  • yarn needle
  • stitch markers, if desired
  • ruler or tape measure, if desired

Stitches and Abbreviations

  • st/sts – stitch/stitches
  • ch – chain
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together
  • hdc2tog – half double crochet two stitches together
  • dc2tog – double crochet two stitches together
  • BLO – back loops only

Special Stitches

I find that regular hdc2tog stitches can look a little too bulky, especially for small projects like baby shoes. Here is a different way to make a half-double decrease in an invisible way.

If you are familiar with invisible single crochet decreases for amigurumi, this is similar.

Invisible HDC decrease:

Step 1: Yarn over.

Step 2: Insert the hook into the front loop of the first stitch of the decrease.

Step 3: Insert the hook into the front loop of the next stitch of the decrease.

Step 4: Yarn over and draw through the first two loops on hook.

Step 5: Yarn over and draw through the last three loops on hook.

You can use this stitch whenever I call for a hdc2tog decrease in the pattern.

Pattern Notes

  • This pattern is written in US/American terms.
  • The sole and the upper part in written in joined rounds. The cuff is written in rows.
  • Use a stitch marker to mark your first stitch of the row/round.
  • At the end of each round, join the round with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the previous round.
  • Chain 1 to begin a round. Chain 1 does not count as a stitch.

How to Read a Crochet Pattern

Crochet patterns are written using many abbreviations and terms, which save space and make patterns easier to read. Here are some tips:

  • Unless the pattern indicates otherwise, assume that you move on to the next stitch. For example, “3 hdc” means to work 1 hdc into each of the next 3 stitches. If the pattern wants you to work 3 dc all into the same place, it will say “3 dc in next st”
  • ( ) Parentheses are used to indicate a group of stitches that are to be worked together into a stitch.
  • [ ] Brackets are used to tell you how many times to work a certain step. The number immediately following the brackets tells you how many times to do the step.

Sole Section

Round 1: Ch 10. In the second ch from the hook, make 2 hdc. 7 hdc. In the last chain, make 5 hdc. Continuing around the other side of the starting chain, make 7 hdc. Make 2 hdc in the last ch. Join with a sl st to the top of the first hdc.

Round 2: Ch 1. In the same st, make 2 sc. 2 sc in the next st. 4 sc, 3 hdc. 2 hdc in each of the next 5 sts. 3 hdc, 4 sc. 2 sc in each of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (32 sts)

Round 3: Ch 1. Starting in the first stitch, repeat [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 7 hdc, repeat [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 7 hdc, repeat [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times. Join with a sl st to the top of the first hdc. (42 sts)

Upper Section

The upper section is done in joined rounds. Each round will begin with a ch-1, which does not count as a stitch.

Start each round by making the first crochet stitch into the same stitch as the slip stitch join. Continue around.

When you get the end of the round, join to the first stitch with a slip stitch.

Here is a picture to illustrate the joins.

how to join crochet rounds with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the previous round

Round 4: Ch 1. (Does not count as a stitch here, or in the rounds that follow.) 42 hdc blo. Join with a sl st to the top of the first hdc. (42 sts)

Round 5: Ch 1. 42 sc. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (42 sts)

Round 6: Ch 1. 11 sc, hdc, repeat [hdc2tog, hdc] two times, repeat [dc2tog, dc] three times, dc2tog, repeat [hdc, hdc2tog] two times, hdc, 6 sc. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (34 sts)

Round 7: Ch 1. 13 sc, hdc, hdc2tog, 4 dc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc, 7 sc. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (28 sts)

Round 8: Ch 1. 12 sc, hdc, 4 dc2tog, hdc, 6 sc. Join with a sl st to the top of the first sc. (24 sts)

Notes: Some readers have said they are having trouble with their decreases looking asymmetrical, or off-center. Here are some suggestions:

The first thing to know is that the last stitch of Round 5 will be about 2-3 stitch lengths to the right of center. This is normal – the shifting seam is caused by the shape of crochet stitches – especially the hdc stitches.

To compensate for the slanted seam, I’ve offset the decrease section in Round 6. This moves the decrease section over a few stitches so that the decreases line up exactly with the center midline of the sole.

Ribbed Cuff Section

The cuff section is worked in rows. Rows of back-loop single crochet create a flexible ribbing that you can fold down to make a cuff.

Note: The rows of ribbing are anchored to the previous round (“Upper” Round 8) by making a slip stitch at the start or end of the row.

Row 1: Ch 9. Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc 8. (8 sts)

Slip stitch into the next stitch from the previous round (Upper Round 8). This slip stitch anchors the row of single crochet you just made to the stitches from the last round of the bootie’s upper section.

Then, make another slip stitch into the next stitch from the last round of the bootie’s upper section. This second slip stitch counts as the turning chain for the next row.

Row 2: Don’t chain 1, as the slip stitch you’ve just made counts as your turning chain. Rotate the bootie counterclockwise so that your working yarn crosses in front of your work. Pass the working yarn in front of your hook and to the back of your work. (See the picture above for clarification.)

Tip: I take this extra step of turning the work counterclockwise and passing the yarn in front of the hook to minimize a bump you can get when working this add-on ribbing technique.

Starting in the third stitch from your hook (remember, skipping over those two slip stitches) make 8 sc-blo.

Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Starting in the second stitch from the hook, make 8 sc-blo. Slip stitch into the next stitch from “Upper” Round 5. Make another slip stitch into the next stitch from “Upper” Round 5.

Row 4, and all even rows: Follow directions from Row 2.

Row 5, and all odd rows: Follow directions from Row 3.

Finishing

When you have made 24 rows of ribbing, cut yarn and pull it through.

Leave a long tail of yarn and use it to seam the two ends of the ribbed cuff section.

And there you go, you’ve made adorable baby booties that any mom-to-be will love.

Have questions? Join the Facebook Group!

I hope this tutorial was useful for you! If you have any additional questions, feel free to join my Facebook Group. I created this group for you to share your pictures, WIPs, ask questions, and help each other out.

What’s Next?

Pin this post: Save this tutorial to your Pinterest boards, so you can come back to it later.

Leave a comment: I love to hear your feedback. Tell me in the comments below!

Share on Instagram or Facebook: When you make this project, share it on social media and tag me @sarahmaker. I love to see what you make!

Classic Cuffed Crochet Baby Booties

Classic Cuffed Crochet Baby Booties

Yield: 2
Active Time: 1 hour
Total Time: 1 hour
Difficulty: Easy

How to crochet classic baby booties with a ribbed fold-down cuff.

Instructions

  1. Round 1: Ch 10. In the second ch from the hook, make 2 hdc. 7 hdc. In the last chain, make 5 hdc. Continuing around the other side of the starting chain, make 7 hdc. Make 2 hdc in the last ch. Join with a sl st.
  2. Round 2: Ch 1. In the same st, make 2 sc. 2 sc in the next st. 4 sc, 3 hdc. 2 hdc in each of the next 5 sts. 3 hdc, 4 sc. 2 sc in each of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st. (32 sts)
  3. Round 3: Ch 1. Repeat [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 7 hdc, repeat [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times, 7 hdc, repeat [1 hdc, 2 hdc in the next st] two times. (42 sts)
  4. Round 4: Ch 1. (Does not count as a st.) 42 hdc blo. Join with sl st. (42 sts)
  5. Round 5: Ch 1. 42 sc. Join with sl st. (42 sts)
  6. Round 6: Ch1. 11 sc, hdc, repeat [hdc2tog, hdc] two times, repeat [dc2tog, dc] three times, dc2tog, repeat [hdc, hdc2tog] two times, hdc, 6 sc. Join with sl st. (34 sts)
  7. Round 7: Ch 1. 13 sc, hdc, hdc2tog, 4 dc2tog, hdc2tog, hdc, 7 sc. Join with sl st. (28 sts)
  8. Round 8: Ch 1. 12 sc, hdc, 4 dc2tog, hdc, 6 sc. Join with sl st. (24 sts)
  9. Cuff Section Row 1: Ch 9. Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc 8. Slip stitch into the next stitch from the previous round.
  10. Row 2: Slip stitch into the next stitch from the previous round. Turn, do not ch 1. 8 sc-blo.
  11. Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. 8 sc-blo. Slip stitch into the next stitch from the previous round.
  12. Row 4, and remaining even rows: Follow instructions in row 2.
  13. Row 5, and remaining odd rows: Follow instructions in row 3.
  14. When you have made 24 rows of ribbing, cut yarn and pull it through. Leave a long tail of yarn and use it to seam the two ends of the ribbed cuff section.

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CJ

Wednesday 10th of March 2021

I've been trying unsuccessfully, to work the 6th round,I'm guessing this is a decrease rnd, but not sure if I only decrease the hdc2tog. Any suggestions? Thank you,

Stacey

Tuesday 16th of March 2021

@Sarah, I was so stuck on this bit. Your pattern states the hdc2tog is a decrease, but I wasn't clear that the dc2tog is a decrease too.

Sarah

Wednesday 10th of March 2021

Hi, In the 6th round there are twp kinds of decreases: hdc2tog, which is a hdc decrease, and dc2tog, which is a dc decrease.

Rosa

Saturday 13th of February 2021

Love this pattern. You wrote it with such clarity that it was very easy to follow. Thank you for sharing this pattern!

Sarah

Saturday 13th of February 2021

Thank you Rosa!

Karen Taphorn

Sunday 7th of February 2021

This is by far the best bootie pattern I’ve ever tried. Very easy instructions to follow and they work up beautifully. Thank you so much.

Sarah

Sunday 7th of February 2021

Thank you Karen!

Joanna

Wednesday 3rd of February 2021

So I am a total beginner. I just did the base of the bootie and getting ready to start the top part. After reading the reviews and a lot of people saying they had issues I wanted to check that my ending stitch for the base is in the correct place since I thought it would be in the middle of the end.. If that makes sense? But it's past the end (heel or toe) and stops about a quarter of the way down the side. Is that how is supposed to end before I start the top part? Not sure if I can add a pic to show what I mean? Thanks so much and thank you for all the wonderful tutorials!

Sarah

Friday 5th of February 2021

Hi Joanna, Thanks for your questions. So yes, at the end of round 3 (which is the last round of the sole section), the last stitch will be a little bit behind the midline of the sole, by about 2 stitch lengths at most. This is okay - the shifting seam is caused by the shape of crochet stitches - especially the hdc stitches.

You'll see that I've compensated for the shifting seam in row 6 (which is the first decrease row. I've offset the decrease section (moving it 5 stitches counterclockwise, as it were) so that the decreases line up with the midline of the sole.

Tiffany

Monday 1st of February 2021

I purchased a book from my local craft store for booties and the directions would not work by round 3. Your directions, on the other hand, were clear and extremely understandable! Thank you so very much! I just finished 1 of 2 and look forward to a great pair!

Sarah

Tuesday 2nd of February 2021

Thanks Tiffany!