How to Crochet Baby Yoda – A Free Amigurumi Pattern

Here’s a crochet pattern for a free “baby yoda” crochet amigurumi pattern.

Adorable and mysterious, Baby Yoda is no doubt the best character in the new Star Wars show, The Mandalorian.

Even if you haven’t watched the show, you’ve likely seen a Baby Yoda meme or three on Instagram.

A note about the pattern: I like to crochet, but I usually only write pattern notes for my own reference. This pattern is just my notes as I tried to make a doll for my kiddos. Since this is the first pattern I’ve typed up for my blog, there might be errors. Please comment below with your feedback. I do want to make sure the instructions are clear and easy to follow.

Supplies and Terms

Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver (or other worsted weight yarn) in Frosty Green, Cafe Latte, and Aran. The color “Buff” would also look good.

Hook: Size G (4.0) and size H (5.0)

A note about yarn: I’ve using worsted yarn for this version, and worked up to about 12″ tall. You can, of course, use whatever size yarn/hook combination you like. Gauge isn’t too important – just choose a hook that is a couple of sizes smaller than your yarn recommends so that you can crochet a tight fabric.

The size and shape of the plush will also depend on how tightly you stuff it. I recommend stuffing the plush pretty firmly for the best shape.

Terminology: US crochet terms

Abbreviations 

  • Back loop only (blo)
  • Chain (ch)
  • Decrease (Sc2tog)– see the notes about the invisible decrease in the section below
  • Round (rnd) 
  • Single Crochet (sc)
  • Space (sp)
  • Skip (skp)
  • Stitch (st)
  • Slip Stitch (sl st)
  • Yarn Over (yo)

Other items needed

Special Stitches and Techniques

Invisible Decrease (Sc2tog): Insert the hook in front loop only of first st, insert hook in front loop only of second st (3 loops on hook), yo and draw through 2 loops, yo and complete sc as normal.

Bobble Stitch (Dc8tog): This is an 8 dc bobble stitch worked over 2 stitches.

  • Step 1: Yo, insert hook into next st and draw up a loop, yo and draw through two loops on the hook. (2 loops)
  • Step 2: Yo, insert hook into same st and draw up another loop, yo and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (3 loops)
  • Step 3: Yo, insert hook into same st and draw up another loop, yo and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (4 loops)
  • Step 4: Yo, insert hook into same st and draw up another loop, yo and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (5 loops)
  • Step 5: Yo, insert hook into the next st and draw up another loop, yo and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (6 loops)
  • Step 6: Yo, insert hook into the next st and draw up another loop, yo and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (7 loops)
  • Step 7: Yo, insert hook into the next st and draw up another loop, yo and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (8 loops)
  • Step 8: Yo, insert hook into the next st and draw up another loop, yo and draw through the first two loops on the hook. (9 loops)
  • Step 9: Yo and pull through all loops on hook. (This will give you 1 stitch) Then, yo again and pull through to close the stitch. (This is like an extra slip stitch that will give you a second stitch per bobble to work on the next round.)

Baby Yoda Pattern

The pattern is worked in continuous spirals (without joining the rounds) from the feet up. You will need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts; move the marker up to the first stitch of the next round after finishing the previous one.

Make two legs, and then join them together to make the body. Continue to the head. Make two arms, and join them to the body. Make two ears, and join them to the head.

Feet and Legs

Rnd 1: With green yarn and size G hook, make a magic circle, work 6sc (6sts)

Rnd 2: Work 2sc in each st around (12sts)

Rnd 3: *Sc in next st, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (18sts)

Rnd 4: *Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, repeat from * around (24sts)

Rnd 5: Sc blo in each of the next 8 sts, work dc8tog bobble over the next two sts in the back loops, 1sc blo, dc8tog bobble over the next two sts in the back loops, 1sc blo, dc8tog bobble over the next two sts in the back loops, 8sc blo (24sts) If this part is confusing, first of all, sorry — and second, look at the stitch description a couple paragraphs up, especially step 9.

Rnds 6-7: Sc in each st around (24sts)

Rnd 8: Sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog 4 times, sc in each of the remaining 8 sts (20sts)

Rnd 9: Sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog 2 times, sc in each of the remaining 8 sts (18sts)

Rnd 10-14: Sc in each st around (18sts) Fasten off the first leg, keep a marker in the last stitch of the round for later. Do not fasten off the second leg. Stuff the feet, and leave the legs unstuffed for now, until you join them in the next step.

Join the Legs

Rnd 15: On the second leg, work 6 sc, then ch 2. Place the first leg next to the second so that both feet are facing the same way, and a little turned out. Then sc into the last st of Rnd 14 on the first leg. Continue with 17 sc around the first leg, sc in each of the ch, and continue with 12 sc around the remaining sts on the second leg. (40sts)

Rnd 16: Sc in each st around (40sts)

Body

Remember to stuff the body firmly as you go.

Rnd 17: Sc in the next 6 sts, 2sc in each of the 2 ch, sc in the remaining 32 sts (42)

Rnd 18: Sc in each of the next 20 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 18 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 2 sts (44)

Rnd 19: Sc in each of the next 9 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 10 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 10 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 10 sts, 2sc in next st, sc (48)

Rnd 20: Sc in each of the next 9 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 11 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 11 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 11 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 2 (52)

Rnd 21-22: Sc in each st around (52)

Rnd 23: Sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 11 sts, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 11 sts, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 11 sts, sc2tog, sc (48)

Rnd 24: *Sc in each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (44)

Rnd 25: *Sc in each of the next 9 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (40)

Rnd 26: Sc in each st around (40)

Rnd 27: *Sc in each of the next 8 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (36)

Rnd 28: *Sc in each of the next 7 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (32)

Rnd 29: Sc in each st around (32)

Rnd 30: *Sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (28)

Rnd 31: *Sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (24)

Rnd 32: *Sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around (20)

Rnd 33: Sc in each st around (20)

Head

Rnd 34: Sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 6 sts, 2sc in next st (24)

Rnd 35: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * around (30)

Rnd 36: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * around (36)

Rnd 37: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 5 sts, repeat from * around (42)

Rnd 38: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 6 sts, repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 39: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 7 sts, repeat from * around (54)

Rnd 40: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 8 sts, repeat from * around (60)

Rnd 41: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 9 sts, repeat from * around (66)

Rnd 42-43: Sc in each st around (66)

Rnd 44: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 9 sts, repeat from * around (60)

Rnd 45: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 8 sts, repeat from * around (54)

Rnd 46-47: Sc in each st around (54)

Rnd 48: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 8 sts, repeat from * around (60)

Rnd 49: Sc in each st around (60)

At this point, you may want to attach the safety eyes, if using. Make sure to do the eyes before the hole gets too small, and stuff tightly as you go.

I put the eyes around rows 44-45, and placed them about 11-12 stitches apart. Try and see if that looks good to you because the placement will vary a bit depending on the size eyes you buy and how tightly you’ve stuffed the doll, I imagine.

Important! Crochet fabric stretches, and even large safety eyes can be pulled out with heavy use. If you are making this plush toy for a child, use an almond-shaped piece of black or dark brown felt instead!

Rnd 50: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 8 sts, repeat from * around (54)

Rnd 51: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 7 sts, repeat from * around (48)

Rnd 52: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 6 sts, repeat from * around (42)

Rnd 53: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 5 sts, repeat from * around (36)

Rnd 54: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 4 sts, repeat from * around (30)

Rnd 55: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 3 sts, repeat from * around (24)

Rnd 56: * Sc2tog, sc in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from * around (18)

Rnd 57: * Sc2tog, sc in next st, repeat from * around (12)

Rnd 58: Sc2tog in each st around (6) Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use a blunt-tipped tapestry needle to weave yarn through the remaining stitches, and pull tight to close the hole.

Arms

Make 2, working in continuous spiral rounds. Leave a long yarn tail at the beginning to sew the arm to the body. Stuff the arm and fingers as you go. Use less stuffing in the shoulder area less so it will be easier to attach to the body.

Rnd 1: Ch 6. Sl st to join into a circle (6)

Rnd 2: 2sc in each st (12)

Rnd 3-7: Sc in each st around (12)

Rnd 8: 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 11 sts (13)

Rnd 9: Sc in each st around (13)

Rnd 10: 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 12 sts (14)

Rnd 11: Sc in each st around (14)

Rnd 12: * 2sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc in each of the next 5 sts, repeat from * around (18)

Rnd 13: Sc in each st around (18)

Divide for the three fingers.

Rnd 14: Sc in each of the next 6 sts, leave the remaining stitches unworked. (6)

Rnd 15: Sc in first st of Rnd 14 and each of the next 5 sts (6)

Rnd 16: Sc2tog around (3 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long enough yarn tail to sew tip of finger closed. Continue making the second and third finger.

Second Finger

Rnd 14: Join yarn, sc in the 7th st of Rnd 13, sc in each of the next 2 sts, skip next 6 sts, sc in each of the next 3 sts (6)

Rnd 15: Sc in first st of Rnd 14 and each st around (6)

Rnd 16: Sc2tog around (3 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long enough yarn tail to sew tip of finger closed. Continue making the third finger.

Third Finger

Rnd 14: Join yarn, sc in the 10th st of Rnd 13, sc in each of the next 5 sts (6)

Rnd 15: Sc in first st of Rnd 14 and each st around (6) Finish stuffing the fingers.

Rnd 16: Sc2tog around (3 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long enough yarn tail to sew tip of finger closed.

Shoulder Seam

With yarn tail, or a new piece of yarn, use a blunt tapestry needle to sew the shoulder opening of the arm to the body. I used a simple whip stitch and made the seam 2 rows down from the beginning of the head increases.

Ears

Make two, working in continuous spiral rounds. Leave a long yarn tail at the end to sew the arm to the body.

Rnd 1: Make a magic circle, work 3 sc. Pull closed. (3 sts)

Rnd 2: 2sc into each st (6)

Rnd 3: Sc in each st around (6)

Rnd 4: * 2sc in next st, sc in next st, rep from * around (9)

Rnd 5: Sc in each st around (9)

Rnd 6: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 2 sts, rep from * around (12)

Rnd 7: Sc in each st around (12)

Rnd 8: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, rep from * around (15)

Rnd 9: Sc in each st around (15)

Rnd 10: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 4 sts, rep from * around (18)

Rnd 11: Sc in each st around (18)

Rnd 12: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 5 sts, rep from * around (21)

Rnd 13: Sc in each st around (21)

Rnd 14: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 6 sts, rep from * around (24)

Rnd 15: Sc in each st around (24)

Rnd 16: * 2sc in next st, sc in each of the next 7 sts, rep from * around (27)

Rnd 17-22: Sc in each st around (27)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Sew on the ears.

Flatten the ears, do not stuff. Fold over one of the long sides of the ear about an inch to create the folded top shape before sewing.

Line up the ears with the sides of the head, and sew on to the head with a blunt tapestry needle. I worked around both sides of the ear with a whip stitch. Be careful to catch all the layers of the folded part when you’re sewing. Weave in the ends.

Robe

The robe, or coat, is worked back and forth in rows. I call for 3 ch for the turning ch, but you can adjust to use 2 if that’s what you prefer for double crochet.

Row 1: With brown yarn and size H hook (5.0mm), chain 53. Dc into 4th ch from hook and next 49 chs (50)

Row 2-9: Ch 3, turn, dc into each st (50 sts)

Row 10: Ch 3, turn, dc into each of the next 14 sts, dc2tog, dc into each of the next 8 sts, dc2tog, dc into each of the next 8 sts, dc2tog, dc into each of the next 14 sts (47)

Row 11: Ch 3, turn, dc into each of the next 14 sts, dc2tog, dc into each of the next 15 sts, dc2tog, dc into each of the next 14 sts (45)

Make the armholes

Row 12: Ch 3, turn, dc into each of the next 12 sts, chain 8, skip the next 4 sts, dc into each of the next 13 sts, chain 8, skip the next 4 sts, dc into each of the next 12 sts (53)

Row 13: Ch 1, turn, sc into each of the next 10 sts, sc2tog, sc into each of the next 8 ch sts, sc2tog, sc into each of the next 9 sts, sc2tog, sc into each of the next 8 ch sts, sc2tog, sc into each of the next 10 sts. (49) Fasten off brown yarn.

Make the collar.

Row 14: Join cream yarn with a dc in the last st of row 13. Dc in each st across (49)

Row 15-17: Ch 3, turn, dc into each st across (49) Fasten off and weave in ends.

Make the sleeves. The sleeves are worked in joined rows. Make 1 in each armhole.

Rnd 1: Join brown yarn at the armhole opening of the robe make in Row 12. Sc 14 sts evenly around. Sl st to join.

Rnd 2-4: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around (14) At the end of rnd 4, fasten off.

Rnd 5: Join cream yarn, 2 dc in first st, and dc in each of the next 13 st around (15) Fasten off and weave in ends.

Repeat for the other sleeve.

Face Details

The general idea is that I’m making short lengths of chain stitches and sewing them on to create the face details.

You can see in the (admittedly very creepy) picture above that I’m working with 20 mm safety eyes backed with an almond-shaped piece of dark brown felt. I added the felt because I thought the 20 mm eyes were a bit too small, and I wanted to get a better shape. You can add it or omit it based on what size eyes you can find.

For the eyelids, make 2

With green yarn and size G hook, ch 19. Leave a long yarn tail. Use a blunt tapestry needle to use to sew the length of chain stitches around the eye to create both the upper and lower eyelids. Weave in the ends.

For the eyebrows, make 2

Ch 13, work sc in the second ch from the hook and in each of the remaining 11 sts (12) If you prefer you could also make 12 foundation sc sts and use those.

Leave a long yarn tail. Use a blunt tapestry needle to use to sew the length of stitches around the top and outside corner of the eye to create eyebrows.

For the nose

With green yarn and size G hook, ch 3. Work a 6dc bobble stitch in the second and third chains from the hook. (Work 3/6 in the second chain, and 3/6 in the third chain) After you yo and pull through all loops on hook, yo again and pull through to close and tighten the stitch. Use a long yarn tail to sew the nose onto the face.

For the mouth

For the top lip, ch 8. For a bottom lip, ch 6. I went back and forth on whether I even wanted a bottom lip, but you can decide if you like it or not.

If you look at screengrabs from the show, his mouth is usually straight across or turned down in a sort-of frown.

Okay, I think that’s it for the pattern! Good luck with your little guy.

Like I said, I’m definitely not a professional crochet pattern writer, so please post any questions in the comments and I’ll try to problem-solve!

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122 thoughts on “How to Crochet Baby Yoda – A Free Amigurumi Pattern”

  1. My hubby wants one for Christmas. He never asks me to make him anything. I am egearly waiting for the rest of the pattern. Would love to see how you do the details on the face as well.

    Reply
  2. So amazing!!! Thank you for sharing your creation!! I have a very excited son who has informed me this NEEEEDDDDSSSS to be under the tree for him. he is 18. Lol

    Reply
  3. Love this cute little guy and I’ve just started on him. I have a question. In row 5 do you just crochet in the back loop only in all stitches or just the 1st 8? This is in the feet and leg section.

    Reply
  4. Thank you for sharing this adorable pattern! Out of curiosity, approximately how big will this amigurumi be? More than 7”? More than 12”?

    Reply
  5. ¡¡¡¡¡¡THANK YOU¡¡¡¡¡ ¡¡¡¡¡GRACIAS¡¡¡¡¡ I love this pattern. My husband will be very happy when I’ll finish it.

    Reply
    • I have 20mm eyes in the pictures, but I think the doll would look better with at least 24mm eyes. If you can’t find larger eyes, you can always add an oval of brown felt behind them like I’ve done. Up to you!

      Reply
  6. I am ready to attach the safety eyes, which round should I put them in and about how many stitches are in between the eyes? (I am currently at round 50 of the head).

    THANK YOU! This pattern is AMAZING. I keep cuddling him, even though he’s just got his little feet and body so far <3

    Reply
    • Ah Stephanie, sorry, I didn’t write this down in my notes. But looking at the doll right now, I’m almost positive I put the eyes in row 44, and they look to be about 11/12 stitches apart. See if that looks good to you, because the placement will vary a bit depending on how tightly you’ve stuffed the doll, I imagine.

      Reply
    • Stephanie i’m having trouble connecting the legs is the pattern have an error
      or is it just me not understanding the way it’s written??

      Reply
  7. Hello. Thank you so much! We appreciate all the hard work that went into making this and then generously sharing it with us. Happy Holidays!

    Reply
  8. Hi Sarah, thank you so much!! Can you please tell me if it is possible to make a smaller version, while using the same yarn as mentioned here? Thanks again

    Reply
    • Sorry I don’t have a video but I’ll try to add a drawing to show what I mean. It’s like you go halfway around leg A, make a chain of two stitches in the crotch area as a “bridge” between the two legs, go all the way around the leg B, back over the two chain stitches on the “bridge”, and finish up the remaining stitches on leg A.

      Reply
  9. oops i already mentioned this. and just saw that the amount of stitches in row 16 is already changed. 🙂 and thank you so much for this pattern

    Reply
    • Hi Kes,
      In row 16 it’s 18 sts in each leg, plus the 2 stitches on the chain “bridge” that you work two times — once on the back of the body, once on the front. So 6+2+18+2+12 is 40. Then, on row 17, you increase on each of the two chain “bridge” stitches on the backside only, which would give you 42 at the end of the round.

      Reply
  10. Many thanks for this pattern… so well done …. just as good as the one made by Allison Hoffman. Hers went viral, unfortunately no longer available… so I am so very very happy to have found yours, and appreciative of your time and effort in writing it. Merry Christmas and a very Prosperous New Year.

    Reply
  11. Hello! First of all, BRILLIANT! Second, I tried to scroll and see if you already answered this, and I didn’t see it. For the dc8tog bobbles, are you counting that as 2 stitches for the 24 round count?

    Reply
    • Yes, there are two stitches. One is the normal closing bobble stitch, and one is the extra chain I ask you to do after the bobble to keep it tight. (step 9 in the special stitches section.)

      Reply
  12. Thank you for the pattern. It’s very easy to follow. I just finished making one for my office secret santa. I’m excited to see my coworker’s face when he opens it.

    Reply
  13. Thank you for sharing your pattern, my son 43 and fan of all Star Wars stuff, is excited about me making Baby Yoda for his son, 6. I’m also thrilled and can’t wait to start making it.

    Reply
  14. I am starting the body and the stitches The count is like 3 off. Any one else having trouble with the body count of stitches?

    Reply
    • Hmm, did you have any trouble with the chain stitches to create that “bridge” between the legs when you joined them? Sometimes it’s easy to miss one of those chains.

      Reply
  15. Thank you for your hard work and sharing with us. Can’t wait to start. Now to order larger safety eyes. lol Happy Holidays to you and yours.

    Reply
  16. Thanks for this amazing pattern, looks like I got it just in time, saw your post about taking it down so I have made a few notes to make sure I get mine finished
    Many thanks Elaine

    Reply
  17. Thank you so much for this pattern. Am hoping to get a few under the tree!
    I’m not sure if it has been said already, but after Round 5, there would only be 21 stitches left. For me, I changed Round six to ‘sc6, 2sc around’ in an effort to bring it back up to the 24 count. This is my second one, and I believe all else worked out mathematically. Thanks again!

    Reply
    • You’re welcome!

      Yeah, it seems like I wasn’t very clear about the bobble toes. In the stitch description about the bobbles at the top of the post, it says Step 9: “Yo and pull through all loops on hook (which would make 1 st), and then yo again and pull through to close the stitch tight (which would be a second stitch). That should give you 24 on the next round.

      I’m glad you came up with a workaround, though, since my instructions were a bit confusing. Sorry!

      Reply
      • Whoops! That was definitely me speeding through the instructions tsk tsk
        Again, thank you. The Child was a huge hit within our family. I posted a pic and tagged you on some social media as I was unsure how to post a pic here. Onto #3 now!
        Thank you for your super quick response too, btw

        My apologies for yet another question. Is there a method to making a ‘flatter’ face like yours? I’m so concerned with stuffing and stuffing and more overstuffing, the head and thereby, face, is coming out far too round, if this makes any sense.

        Reply
        • Wait — is ‘Disney’ asking you to stop or Nosey Nellies — You’re giving this away, making zero profit.
          Unreal

          Thank you for having done so, though.

          Thankful, my family is.

          Reply
  18. How many times do I crochet over the bridge again I’m on row 17 and row 18 do we continue to go over the bridge the two CH that we did to connect the two feet?

    Reply
    • Yes, so on 17 and 18 you’re working across the front side and then the back side of those two chain stitches with single crochet. Then after those two rows you do continue to work them, but I call them single crochets at that point so I just include them in the total stitch count.

      Reply
  19. Thank you for the pattern! Both of my boys are so excited for it! But I am lost on the fingers lol. On the fingers when you say sc2tog on round 16 do you mean for us to turn our work to go back over and close off what we just did?
    Thank you for your help!!

    Reply
  20. Thank you I have orders in from my 3 children, first one started tonight and looking good, pattern very easy to follow, shame you have to take it down, can I ask why?

    Reply
  21. Oh My Goodness another cutie…I made one from another person that had to take hers down also as someone else sed it was theirs…she had a few errors but was able to send out corrections…I did get those…I was well past those errors and just made my own corrections…I will make one from your pattern as well after Christmas…lol…My friend’s son is turning 30 in Feb and is a real die in the wool Star Wars fan…He will love it…They are fun to make and I thank you for leaving it up for those that did not print or save this pattern…You have a great day and an awesome Christmas and New Year

    Reply
  22. Well written pattern that I am grateful to have found before it was removed. This crocheted up quickly and rather easily. It was the perfect christmas gift and his reaction was priceless. Thank you so kuch for writing and sharing this amazing pattern!

    Reply
  23. Thank you, thank you, thank you. My son waited until less then a wk before Christmas to inform me that he really really wanted something baby Yoda for Christmas. Thank you

    Reply
  24. Thank you so much for the pattern you did a great job my six year old grandson love it now I am making his sister one you made their Christmas thank you again

    Reply
  25. I did the bobble stitches all in the one stitch, 8 double crochets in one stitch. I am going to do it over as it seems to me the leg is inside out, maybe I turned back instead of continuing a round.

    Reply
  26. Glad to find this before it disappears.
    Not for a baby so using 20 mm black shank ball buttons for eyes. Sewing them on thru the stuffing will allow me to sculpt the face a little.
    Well written and fun.
    Thanks for the pattern. 🙂

    Reply
  27. Help I am stuck on row16 of the fingers, I did the sc in the 5 sts, then on rnd 16 sc2tog around 3sts, then what, it looks like a bubble what did I do wrong? I love your pattern.

    Reply
  28. Thank you for your pattern. It has been fun to do. I got one done by Christmas and just finished second one. I have to agree with you on the mouth. I ended up doing both top and bottom, but put them together. I appreciate you sharing!

    Reply
  29. Absolutely great pattern. I have just completed entire pattern except the face pieces and would send a picture if I could..it looks just like your minus the face which I will finish tomorrow.
    No problems with the written pattern at all. Perfect. Thank you again.

    Reply
  30. Sarah, thank you so much for sharing your pattern. It is awesome and I am in awe of those that can create patterns like this. I’m up to where you put the eyes in but I don’t have them yet. In the mean time I will work on the arms and ears. So far your instructions are very easy to follow. Can’t wait to finish the little guy! Thank you again!

    Reply
  31. Finished my project last night. He is super cute. Thank you. I wish I could attach pictures here so you could see how great he turned out. The pattern is pretty easy to follow.

    Reply
  32. Thank you for this lovely pattern. I have enjoyed making him. I have a teacher friend who keeps him in his classroom. I am currently trying to make him with a chunky yarn. Will send you a pic when done.

    Reply

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