Learn how to crochet a cute hexi cardi with this free granny hexagon cardigan pattern. 

You’ve probably seen colorful granny hexagon cardigans all over social media lately. The hexi cardi is a classic design that’s become an absolute crowd favorite. 

Today, I want to walk you through how to crochet your own granny hexagon cardigan. I’ve played around with the design, adding a few of my own tweaks to improve the fit, and now I’m excited to share this made-to-measure pattern with you.

Christine says, “This is one beautifully written pattern!”

Some key elements that make hexagon cardigans so fun to crochet:

  • The granny stitch adds great texture with endless color customization options.
  • They have an open, oversized silhouette.
  • A few decreases on the underside of the sleeve create a slimmer, tapered look.
  • Less shaping is required than traditional raglan or top-down cardigan construction.

In this post, we’ll go through the process step-by-step, from choosing the yarn to weaving in the ends. And by the end, you’ll have a cardigan that’s not only beautiful but also something you’ll genuinely enjoy wearing.

Hexagon Cardigans: The Basic Idea

The construction of a hexagon cardigan is pretty clever. Unlike regular cardigan construction where different flat pieces are seamed together, a hexagon cardigan is made from two large hexagon pieces.

The granny hexagons are worked in rounds, similar to granny squares. But instead of four-sided squares, you’ll make six-sided hexagons. The hexagons fold up to create two L-shaped halves, which are then seamed together to create the final cardigan shape.  

From there, it’s just a matter of customizing your sweater by adding length, width, sleeves, and even some ribbing to polish it off. The result is a cropped, oversized cardigan with a fun, modern look.

Choosing Yarn for this Pattern

Now, let’s talk about yarn options. When choosing a yarn for this granny hexagon cardigan, you’ll want a DK weight yarn with nice drape and color options.

For this pattern, I worked with Lion Brand Mandala Baby in the Echo Caves colorway. I love the blue-green tones and easy care of this acrylic yarn.

If you want to match my sample cardigan, separate the yarn into balls of each individual color, and change colors each round. Or, if you don’t feel like weaving in all of those ends, don’t cut the yarn and let the ombre colorway do the color-changing for you.  

Can’t find Lion Brand Mandala Baby? Here are a couple of other yarn options:

Other Supplies You’ll Need

You’ll also need the following supplies:

  • Crochet Hook: Use a 5.5mm crochet hook, or another size to meet gauge. 
  • Scissors: Sharp scissors for cutting yarn as you go. 
  • Yarn Needle: You’ll need a large, blunt yarn needle for weaving in all those ends neatly!
  • Stitch markers:  Use stitch markers to mark important points like the Sleeve Edge or the beginning of the rounds. 
  • Measuring Tape: Measuring tape can help for checking gauge and taking body measurements for any needed adjustments.

Basic Crochet Techniques to Know 

Here are the essential crochet techniques you’ll need to know to create a hexagon cardigan:

Finished Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

Measurements

Bust: 30” (34”, 38”, 42”, 46”, 50”, 54”, 58”, 62”)

Materials

Yarn

Lion Brand, Mandala Baby, Size 3 (DK) weight [100% acrylic; 590 yards / 540 m per 150 g skein]; color: Echo Caves; 2 (2,2,3,3,3,4,4,4) Skeins (375g)

Hook

Size US I (5.5mm) Crochet Hook

Notions

  • Stitch Markers
  • Tapestry Needle
  • Tape Measure
  • Scissors
  • Buttons, optional

Gauge

4 clusters and 8 rows = 4 in x 4 in (10cm x 10cm) in granny hexagon pattern.

Abbreviations

  • beg = beginning
  • blo = back loop only
  • ​​ch = chain
  • cl = cluster
  • dc = double crochet
  • FO = fasten off
  • rep = repeat
  • sc = single crochet
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • sp = space
  • st/s = stitch/es

Special Stitches

Granny Cluster (cl): 3 double crochet in same sp

Granny Square Decrease: dc in first ch-sp, dc2tog across first and second ch-sps, dc in second ch-sp. (each Granny Square Decrease will be considered a Granny Cluster starting at Round 5)

blue and green yarn showing a granny decrease on a gray background
Granny Square Decrease

Pattern Notes

  • Pattern written in US terms.
  • Hexagons will look “ruffled” and not lay flat. This is correct.
  • To achieve the cardigan’s striped look, separate the yarn colors by rolling each color from the skein into a smaller ball. Then, use a different color for each round to create a unique cardigan all your own! 
  • Ch 3 counts as a dc. Optionally, use standing dc to attach new yarn.
  • Pattern is worked in joined rounds without turning unless otherwise indicated. Each round will be worked on the right side. 
  • Change Color: Attach new yarn color with a sl st into ch-2 sp directly BEFORE beginning Ch 3 of each round. 
  • Create your last cluster in the same ch-2 sp as the beginning cluster. 
  • Ch 4 counts as a dc, ch 1. This will be the decrease for the neckline. 
  • Keep stitch markers placed in Row 1 for adding Width and Length section in same stitch until after shoulder seaming. The marker designates where the seam will end. 

Construction Overview

  1. Crochet 2 hexagons for the main body of the cardigan. 
  2. Crochet additional rows along three sides: center back, bottom, and center front sides. 
  3. Seam the center back and shoulders.
  4. Crochet additional rounds to extend the sleeves.
  5. Add crochet ribbing.

Body Hexagons (make 2)

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: ch 3 (see Pattern Notes), 2 dc into ring, ch 2, *cl, ch 2* into ring 5 times, sl st to top of beg ch 3 to join round. (6 clusters)

Round 2: Change Color (see Pattern Notes). ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, ch 1 *(cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1 rep from * 5 times, cl in next (see Pattern Notes) ch-2 sp, ch 2, sl st to beg ch 3 to join round. (12 clusters)

Round 3: Change Color. ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, ch 1, cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *(cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, cl in next ch-1 sp, ch 1 rep from * 5 times, cl in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, sl st to beg ch 3 to join round. (18 clusters)

a tablet and a smartphone both displaying pages of a cardigan crochet pattern

Prefer the PDF version?

Grab the ad-free, printable PDF pattern. Download and print at home, or view on your computer, tablet, or smartphone.

Begin Sleeve Decreases

For the left hexagon: (see Diagram A), Place marker to designate Side 1 of the hexagon as the “Sleeve Edge.” Starting in Round 4, decrease 1 cluster at the center of Side 1 every third round.

For the right hexagon: (see Diagram B), Place marker to designate Side 6 of the hexagon as the “Sleeve Edge”. Starting in Round 4, decrease 1 cluster at the center of Side 6 every third round.

Round 4 LEFT: (Decrease Round) Change Color. ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, ch 1, Granny Square Decrease (see Special Stitches), ch 1, *(cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, (cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to corner; rep from * 5 times, cl in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, sl st to beg ch 3 to join round. 

Round 4 RIGHT: (Decrease Round) Change Color. ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, ch 1, *(cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to corner, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 5 times, Granny Square Decrease, ch 1, cl in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, sl st to beg ch 3 to join round.

Round 5: Change Color. ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, ch 1, *(cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to corner, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 5 times, (cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to corner, cl in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, sl st to beg ch 3 to join round.

Round 6: rep Round 5.

Rep rounds 4-6, decreasing every third round for a total of 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21) rounds, or until under the Center Point to Shoulder Edge (see Diagram C) measures 6.5” (7”, 7.5”, 8”, 8.5”, 9”, 9.5”, 10”, 10.5”).

To measure: fold each hexagon in half to form an L shape, as shown in Diagram C. The decreases will be situated on the bottom edge of the sleeve.

Then continue to the next section. Keep note of which round you ended with as you will repeat these rounds to add length to the sleeves after seaming the two hexagons together. 

Adding Width to Center Back/Front and Length to Bottom

In this section, we’ll crochet around 3 sides of the hexagon to increase the width and length of the cardigan without increasing the sleeve size.

For left hexagon: (see Diagram E), You’ll start at the top of the Center Front edge, continue around the Bottom Edge, and back up the Center Back edge. You will decrease one cluster each row at the top of the Center Front edge to create a V neckline with a ch 4. (see Diagram F and G)

Row 1 LEFT: Change Color (attaching yarn in corner ch-2 sp). ch 4 (see Pattern Notes), place stitch marker (see Pattern Notes) in ch 4, *(cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to corner, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 1 time, (cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to corner, 2 dc in last ch-2 sp.

Row 2 LEFT: Change Color (attaching yarn in ch-4 sp). ch 4, *(cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to corner, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 1 time, (cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to corner, 1 dc in last dc.

Row 3 LEFT: Change Color (attaching yarn in corner ch-4 sp). ch 4, *(cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to corner, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 1 time, (cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to corner, 2 dc in last dc.

For right hexagon: (see Diagram D), You’ll start at the top of the Center Back edge, continue around the Bottom edge, and back up the Center Front edge. You’ll decrease one cluster each row at the top of the Center Front edge to create a V neckline with the last dc of round. (see Diagram H and I)

Row 1 RIGHT: Attach new yarn in corner ch-2 sp. ch 3, dc in same ch-1 sp, ch 1 *(cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to corner, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 1 time, (cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to last ch-sp, 1 dc in last ch-sp, place marker in dc. 

Row 2 RIGHT: Attach new yarn in turning ch-3 from previous row. ch 4, *(cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to corner, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 1 time, (cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to last ch-sp, 1 dc in last ch-sp.

Row 3 RIGHT: Attach new yarn in ch-4-sp. ch 3, dc in same ch-sp, ch 1 *(cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to corner, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * 1 time, (cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to last ch-sp, 1 dc in last ch-sp.

Repeat Rows 2 & 3, crocheting a total of 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) rows until Center Point to Center Front edge (see Diagram J) measures 7.5” (8.5”, 9.5”, 10.5”, 11.5”, 12.5”, 13.5”, 14.5”, 15.5”). FO and weave in ends. 

Joining the Two Halves

Fold the two hexagons (see Diagrams D and E). Align center back edges. Seam the center back seam with a mattress stitch.

Seaming the Shoulders

Align shoulder seams and use a mattress stitch to seam together, making sure to end at the stitch markers. Once seamed, remove stitch markers. (See Diagram K)

Add Sleeve Length

Attach new yarn color with a sl st into ch-2 sp directly BEFORE beginning Ch 3 of last round of sleeve. Begin repeating rounds 4-6 of sleeve decreases, making sure to begin your round in the next consecutive round from where you ended previously. Example: if you ended with round 5, begin with round 6. 

In the first round only: When you come to the shoulder seam, work a granny decrease in the two ch-2 corner spaces on either side of the seam. 

Rep rounds 4-6 of sleeve decreases for an additional 17 (17, 16, 16, 15, 15, 14, 14, 13) rounds, or until sleeve edge (see Diagram L) measures 4” across (8 clusters). Rep round 5 until under the Underarm to Wrist (see Diagram M) measures 15” (15.5”, 15.5”, 16”, 16”, 16.5”, 16.5”, 17”, 17”). FO and weave in ends.

diagram showing schematic of granny hexagon cardigan

Optional: Adding Length

At this point, you can choose to add additional rows to the bottom edge of the sweater to make it longer.

Row 1: Attach yarn to Bottom Edge in corner ch-2 sp. ch 3, dc in same ch-1 sp, ch 1 *(cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to corner, 2 dc in last ch-2 sp.

Row 2: Attach new yarn in first dc. ch 4, *(cl, ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to corner, 1 dc in last dc.

Adding Ribbing

You’ll create 1.5 inches of sc-blo ribbing to the waistband, neckline, and sleeve cuffs. Ribbing instructions are the same for each section. However, starting placement is different (see Diagram L.)

Waistband Ribbing

Attach yarn to Bottom Edge. sc evenly across, making sure to 1 sc in each dc and ch-sp. Follow Ribbing instructions below. FO and weave in ends. 

Neckline Ribbing

Attach yarn to Bottom Front Corner. sc in evenly across, making sure to 1 sc in each dc and ch-sp up the front, around neckline, and down front. Follow Ribbing instructions below. FO and weave in ends. 

Sleeve Cuff Ribbing

Attach yarn to Sleeve Edge at Underarm. Sc evenly around, making sure to 1 sc in each dc and ch-sp. Join with a sl st. Follow Ribbing Instructions below. FO leaving a 12 in (30cm) tail to join ribbing with a mattress stitch. Weave in ends.

Ribbing

Ribbing Row 1: ch 7. sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, working back to cardigan body. sl st in next 2 sc. Turn, do not ch 1. 

Ribbing Row 2: Starting in third st from hook (skipping over the two sl sts) sc-blo across. Turn.

Ribbing Row 3: ch 1. sc-blo in each st across. sl st in next 2 sc. Turn, do not ch 1. 

Rep Ribbing Rows 2 and 3 until ribbing is complete. 

Finishing

Once complete, lightly steam block to finished measurements. Weave in ends.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Want to customize this pattern even further? Here are some frequently asked questions about modifying your granny hexi cardi.

Can I add buttons to this pattern?

Yes, it’s really easy to add buttonholes to the ribbing portion of this cardigan.

  1. First, decide how many buttons you’d like – I think five looks nice. Use stitch markers to mark the placement of each button. Then, work the neckline ribbing as normal until to reach a stitch marker.
  2. On the next RS ribbing row: Starting in third st from hook, work 2 sc-blo, 2 ch, sk 2 sts, 2 sc-blo. Turn.
  3. On the next WS ribbing row: ch 1, sc-blo in first two sts, 2 sc in ch-2sp, 2 sc-blo in next two sts. sl st in next 2 sc. Turn, do not ch 1.

Then, continue the ribbing as normal until you reach the next buttonhole stitch marker.

Can I make the cardigan longer?

Yes, you can make the granny hexagon cardigan longer by adding additional rows to the bottom edge. Add these rows after you seam the two hexagons together at the Center Back, before you add the ribbing to the Bottom Edge.

What if I want oversized, puffy sleeves?

The best thing about crocheting your own clothes is that you can customize them any way you want. So while I designed this particular pattern with underarm decreases to create slim tapered sleeves, you can eliminate those decreases to create straight boxy sleeves. I suggest trying on the sleeves as you go so you can tell when you want to stop the decreases.

Even More Free Crochet Patterns

If you love crocheting garments, check out these related patterns after this granny hexagon cardigan pattern.

What’s Next?

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15 Comments

  1. Excellent instructions!! Thank you.

  2. I, too, have a question about the gauge. I read the previous question and answer and I still have a question. “4 clusters and 8 rows = 4 in x 4 in (10cm x 10cm) in granny hexagon pattern”

    Four clusters will not form a hexagon. They will form a square. 4 in X 4 in suggests a square. Am I making a traditional square swatch to check my gauge or am I making a hexagon to check my gauge?

    1. Sarah Stearns says:

      You can do either, but I suggest crocheting the first 8 rounds of the hexagon pattern. Then, measure your gauge on one segment of the hexagon. The distance from the center ring to the edge will be 8 rounds, and should measure 4″. Then, measure the width of 4 clusters on one segment of the hexagon. 4 clusters should also measure 4″.

  3. Christine says:

    This is one beautifully written pattern! I’m an experienced crocheter, who uses diagrams, but couldn’t figure out/wasn’t sure of some of the wording in original pattern and the diagram I was using had me turning rounds.

    I know I could have asked questions but I’m just now having the time to make this and I was impatient to make a tiny sweater.

    I found your site happy happy

  4. Hi, this might be a silly question but I don’t understand how to do the gauge. Do you follow the first 8 rows of the pattern, or do 4 clusters and 8 rows to make a square?

    1. Sarah Stearns says:

      Hi Katie, I’d crochet the first 8 rounds of the pattern and then measure your gauge. That way, if your gauge is correct, you already have the first 8 rounds done!

  5. I’m using the same yarn, did you cut and pull a different color for each row?

    1. Sarah Stearns says:

      Yes, I divided the cake into separate colors and changed colors each round. Up to you though, you can keep it as in and have a lot fewer ends to weave in!

  6. Hello! I’m at the point of adding width and length to the center and I’m a little unsure I’m understanding correctly. Am I fastening off after each row and starting back where the row began? And then after row 2, where do I start row 3? In the previous chain 4 instead of the corner ch2 sp? I haven’t done much pattern reading in symbols so I want to make sure I’m understanding correctly. Thank you for your help and for this beautiful pattern!

    1. Sarah Stearns says:

      Hi Erin,
      Sounds like you have the right idea. Yes, you’ll be fastening off and starting back where the row began. (You could turn and go back the other way, but then some of the stitches would have their WS showing. So that’s why I have you fasten off and go back to the starting corner for each row.)

  7. Thank you for this pattern! I look forward to making my own. I was reading through and do not see a Diagram L that was referenced. Can you please help?

    1. Sarah Stearns says:

      Thanks Lauren, looks like it was left out by mistake. I just added it to the post 🙂

  8. Hi! I love this cardi so much!! I was just curious what size you are wearing in the photos? I’m trying to decide on which size to make and I wasn’t sure how much positive ease it has. Thanks so much!!

    1. Sarah Stearns says:

      Hi Angela, I’m wearing an XL here. The measurements at the begining of the pattern give the measurements of the finished garment, so you can choose what size you’d like to make.

  9. Christine beard says:

    Thank you very much for that

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