Want to create a fun crochet plant hanger? This free crochet pattern combines the best parts of macramé and crochet to create a trendy cotton plant hanger for your favorite houseplant.

a finished cotton crochet plant hanger with a terracotta pot on a white background

Free Crochet Plant Hanger Pattern

Houseplants have a way of making any space feel alive and vibrant. And a great way to showcase them is in a handmade plant hanger.

For this project, I’ve created a unique design that draws inspiration from traditional macramé plant hangers. However, I’ve put my own spin on it using crochet techniques and cotton yarn. The result is a bohemian-style crochet plant hanger that combines the best of both worlds. It’s a simple yet sturdy design that will fit a 5-inch tapered plant pot. 

Whether you’re a crochet beginner or have some experience, I can’t wait to share this fun free plant hanger pattern with you. Let’s get started!

Crochet Techniques To Know

This pattern may look complicated at first glance, but it’s actually made up of very basic crochet stitches. 

If you’re unfamiliar with these terms, check out the tutorials linked above.

Is this pattern a good choice for beginners?

Yes, this pattern is a great choice for the confident beginner. While I wouldn’t recommend this pattern as your very first project, I think it’s an excellent choice for someone who has made one or two projects “in the round” before.

If you’re brand new to crochet, start with our How to Crochet guide or our tutorial on the six basic crochet stitches that every beginner should learn.

Supplies You’ll Need

First off, we need to gather our supplies. Here’s our simple shopping list:

  • Medium-weight cotton yarn. It’s sturdy, durable, and doesn’t have a lot of stretch. It also looks the most like macrame!   
  • US H (5mm) crochet hook
  • A 5-inch plant pot

You’ll also need a pair of scissors, a measuring tape or gauge ruler, and a tapestry needle for weaving in ends. Stitch markers aren’t strictly necessary, but they do come in handy for keeping track of your stitches.

Choosing Yarn

We’re using WeCrochet Dishie yarn for this pattern. It’s a category 4 worsted-weight yarn and comes in a wide variety of colors – including solids, multis, and twists. We love it because it’s smooth, soft, and easy to work with. 

If you can’t get your hands on Dishie cotton, try substituting Lily Sugar n’ Cream or another worsted-weight cotton.

Choosing a Crochet Hook

We’ll use a US-size H (5 mm) hook for our plant hanger. I recommend this Clover Amour hook for its smooth surface and ergonomic handle.

Remember to check your gauge to ensure your plant hanger turns out the same size as ours. If your gauge is too tight, try a larger hook. Or, if your gauge is too loose, try a smaller hook.

Choosing a Plant Pot

And, of course, you’ll need a pot to put in your plant hanger. The terracotta pot we’re using is a very basic style pot that you should be able to find at home improvement stores like Lowes.

It has a tapered shape that measures 3.75 inches across at the bottom, 5 inches across at the top, and 4 inches tall.

The crochet pot hanger pattern is designed to fit this tapered shape, but I’ll also show you how you can modify the pattern to fit a straight-sided planter.

a finished cotton crochet pot hanger on a white background

Crochet Plant Hanger Pattern

Alright, time to get stitching! Let’s walk through the plant hanger pattern step-by-step, with plenty of pictures and explanations along the way. 

Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy – Advanced Beginner

Finished Size

5-inch diameter, 4-inches tall with 24-inch hanging cords

Materials

32g (61yds) KnitPicks (WeCrochet) Dishie cotton yarn

Hook

US Size H (5 mm)

Other Supplies

  • 5-inch plant pot
  • tapestry needle
  • measuring tape
  • stitch markers (optional)

Gauge

First 3 rounds = 3.75″ diameter

When you match the gauge, your project will be the same size as described in the pattern.

Stitch Abbreviations

  • ch/s: chains
  • dc: double crochet
  • sc: single crochet
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • sk: skip
  • sp: space
  • st/s: stitch/es

 Pattern Notes

  • The pattern is written using US terms.
  • The plant hanger is worked in one piece, in joined rounds.
  • The hanging cords are attached after the body is complete.

Pattern Instructions

Start with a magic ring.

Round 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), work 11 dc in magic ring, sl st into top of first dc to join. (12 sts)

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st into top of first sc to join. (24 sts)

Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, (2 dc in next st, dc in next st) 11 times, sl st into top of first dc to join. (36 sts)

crochet circle in tan yarn on a gray background
Rounds 1-3 complete

Measure gauge at this point. The crochet circle should measure 3.75″ in diameter.

Round 4: Ch 1, sc in same stitch (mark with a stitch marker), sc in next stitch, *ch 5, sk 3 stitches, sc in each of the next 3 stitches; repeat until the last 4 stitches. ch 5, sk 3 stitches, sc in the last stitch. Sl st into the top of the first sc to join the round.

bottom of a crochet plant hanger with a blue crochet hook
Round 4 complete

Round 5: Ch 1, sc in same stitch (mark the first stitch with a stitch marker), sk next sc, *7 sc in next ch-5 sp, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc; repeat until last ch-5 sp, 7 sc in last ch-5 sp, sl st into top of first sc to join the round.

base of a cotton crochet pot holder on a gray background
Round 5 complete

Round 6: Ch 7 (mark the 5th chain with a stitch marker), sk 3 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc, *ch 5, sk next 5 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc; repeat until last 2 sts remain, ch 2, sk next 2 sc, sl st into 5th turning chain to join the round.

side of an unfinished crochet plant hanger on a gray background
Round 6 complete

Round 7: Ch 1, 4 sc in ch-3 sp, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc, *7 sc in ch-5 sp, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc; repeat until last ch-2 sp, 3 sc in ch-2 sp, sl st into top of first sc to join the round.

closeup of the side of a crochet plant hanger
Round 7 complete

For a tapered pot, continue with Round 8. For a straight-side point, scroll to the alternate instructions below.

Round 8: Ch 1, sc in the same stitch (mark with a stitch marker) and sc in the next stitch, *ch 6, sk 5 sc, sc in each of the next 3 stitches* to the last 6 stitches. ch 6, sk 5 stitches, sc in the last stitch. Sl st into the top of the first sc to join the round.

Round 9: Ch 1, sc in same stitch (mark the first stitch with a stitch marker), sk next sc, *9 sc in next ch-6 sp, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc; repeat until last ch-6 sp, 9 sc in last ch-6 sp, Sl st into the top of first sc to join the round.

Round 10: Ch 8 (mark the 6th chain with a stitch marker), sk 4 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc, *ch 6, sk next 7 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc; repeat until last 3 sts remain, ch 3, sk next 3 sc, Sl st into 6th turning chain to join the round.

Round 11: Ch 1, 5 sc in ch-3 sp, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc, *9 sc in ch-6 sp, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc; repeat until last ch-3 sp, 4 sc in ch-3 sp, sl st into top of first sc to join the round.

Alternate Instructions for a Straight-Sided Pot

Complete Rounds 1-7 as instructed above. Then continue with the instructions below:

Round 8: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch (mark with a stitch marker) and sc in the next stitch, *ch 5, skip 5 sc, sc in each of the next 3 stitches* to the last 6 stitches, ch 5, skip 5 stitches, sc in the last stitch. Sl st into the top of the first sc to join the round.

Round 9: Ch 1, sc in same stitch (mark the first stitch with a stitch marker), sk next sc, *7 sc in next ch-5 sp, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc; repeat until last ch-5 sp, 7 sc in last ch-5 sp, Sl st into the top of first sc to join the round.

Round 10: Ch 7 (mark the 5th chain with a stitch marker), sk 3 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc, *ch 5, sk next 5 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc; repeat until last 2 sts remain, ch 2, sk next 2 sc, Sl st into 5th turning chain to join the round.

Round 11: Ch 1, 4 sc in ch-3 sp, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc, *7 sc in ch-5 sp, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc; repeat until last ch-2 sp, 3 sc in ch-2 sp, sl st into top of first sc to join the round.

Adding Cords

In this section, I’ll describe two ways to add six hanging cords to the planter, one cord for each arch.

Option 1: Easy Slip Stitch Cord

To make this cord, crochet a length of chain stitches that’s slightly longer than the length of the cord you want. Turn, and slip stitch in the back loop of each of the chains. 

Repeat for each of the other five arches: Start with a slip stitch on your hook, then slip stitch into the 5th sc in each group of 9 sc. To finish, cut yarn, pull through, and weave in the ends. 

Option 2: Braided Cord

This easy cord option looks a lot like a fishtail braid. And, at least in my opinion, it’s lot more fun than working into a long strand of chain stitches.

For the first cord: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch.

Cord stitch: Insert the hook under the left-side loop of the first stitch from the hook. Yo, and pull through both loops. Repeat until the cord is as long as desired. 

For the other five cords:  Start with a slip knot on the hook, and leave an 8-inch tail to weave in later. Insert hook into the 5th sc in each group of 9 sc. Make 1 sc.  

Cord stitch: Insert hook under the left-side loop of the first stitch from the hook. Yo, and pull through both loops. Repeat until the cord is as long as desired. 

To finish: Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in the finishing yarn tail.

Then, back at the start of the cord, use the long yarn tail to reinforce the connection of the cord to the body before weaving in the yarn tail.

(Optionally, you can unravel the starting slip knot for a smoother finish.)

Adjusting the Size of the Planter

The pattern, as written, will accommodate a 5-inch diameter pot. But what if you want to hang a larger pot? With a little math, you can adjust the size of the planter to accommodate a larger pot.  

The first change you’ll make will be to add more rounds to the base of the planter so that the diameter of the circle matches the bottom diameter of the pot. For example, if you add another round of dc following the crochet circle increase formula, you’ll have a base diameter of 4″ and a stitch count of 48 sts.

Here’s what that looks like:

Round 4*: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts) 11 times, sl st into top of first dc to join. (48 sts)

Second, you can follow Rounds 4-11 as written – just keep in mind that each round will have more repeats because the stitch count has increased.

Third, you might need to add more rounds to accommodate a taller pot. 

Fourth, you’ll need to add another hanging cord for each additional arch.

a finished cotton crochet plant hanger with a terracotta pot on a white background

More Free Crochet and Macrame Patterns

After you crochet this plant hanger, here are some more free crochet patterns to try!

a finished cotton crochet plant hanger with a terracotta pot on a white background

Crochet Plant Hanger

Yield: 1

Learn how to crochet a cute, macrame-inspired plant hanger that will add a boho vibe to any room. It’s a simple yet sturdy design that will fit a 5-inch tapered plant pot. 

Materials

  • Dishie cotton yarn
  • 5" plant pot

Tools

  • Size H (5 mm) hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Measuring tape
  • Scissors
  • Stitch markers (optional)

Instructions

Planter Instructions

  1. Round 1 (RS): Start with a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), work 11 dc in magic ring, sl st into top of first dc to join. (12 sts)
  2. Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st into top of first sc to join. (24 sts)
  3. Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, (2 dc in next st, dc in next st) 11 times, sl st into top of first dc to join. (36 sts)
  4. Round 4: Ch 1, sc in same stitch (mark with a stitch marker), sc in next stitch, *ch 5, sk 3 stitches, sc in each of the next 3 stitches; repeat until the last 4 stitches. ch 5, sk 3 stitches, sc in the last stitch. Sl st into the top of the first sc to join the round.
  5. Round 5: Ch 1, sc in same stitch (mark the first stitch with a stitch marker), sk next sc, *7 sc in next ch-5 sp, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc; repeat until last ch-5 sp, 7 sc in last ch-5 sp, sl st into top of first sc to join the round.
  6. Round 6: Ch 7 (mark the 5th chain with a stitch marker), sk 3 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc, *ch 5, sk next 5 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc; repeat until last 2 sts remain, ch 2, sk next 2 sc, sl st into 5th turning chain to join the round.
  7. Round 7: Ch 1, 4 sc in ch-3 sp, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc, *7 sc in ch-5 sp, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc; repeat until last ch-2 sp, 3 sc in ch-2 sp, sl st into top of first sc to join the round.
  8. Round 8: Ch 1, sc in the same stitch (mark with a stitch marker) and sc in the next stitch, *ch 6, sk 5 sc, sc in each of the next 3 stitches* to the last 6 stitches. ch 6, sk 5 stitches, sc in the last stitch. Sl st into the top of the first sc to join the round.
  9. Round 9: Ch 1, sc in same stitch (mark the first stitch with a stitch marker), sk next sc, *9 sc in next ch-6 sp, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc; repeat until last ch-6 sp, 9 sc in last ch-6 sp, Sl st into the top of first sc to join the round.
  10. Round 10: Ch 8 (mark the 6th chain with a stitch marker), sk 4 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc, *ch 6, sk next 7 sc, sc in each of next 3 sc; repeat until last 3 sts remain, ch 3, sk next 3 sc, Sl st into 6th turning chain to join the round.
  11. Round 11: Ch 1, 5 sc in ch-3 sp, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc, *9 sc in ch-6 sp, sk next sc, sc in next sc, sk next sc; repeat until last ch-3 sp, 4 sc in ch-3 sp, sl st into top of first sc to join the round.

Adding Cords

  1. For the first cord: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Insert hook under the left-side loop. Yo, and pull through both loops. Repeat until the cord is as long as desired.
  2. For the other five cords:  Start with a slip knot on the hook, and leave an 8-inch tail to weave in later. Insert hook into the 5th sc in each group of 9 sc. Make 1 sc. Insert hook under the left-side loop. Yo, and pull through both loops. Repeat until the cord is as long as desired. 
  3. To finish: Cut yarn and pull through. Weave in the finishing yarn tail. Then, back at the start of the cord, use the long yarn tail to reinforce the connection of the cord to the body before weaving in the yarn tail.

Notes

See the post above for instructions about:

  • adapting the pattern for a straight-side pot
  • adapting the pattern for different size pots
  • alternate instructions for simpler hanging cords.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Instagram

What’s Next?

Pin this post: Save this tutorial to your Pinterest boards so that you can come back to it later.

Leave a comment: We love to hear your feedback. Tell me in the comments below!

Share on Instagram or Facebook: When you make this project, share it on social media and tag me @sarahmaker_. We love to see what you make!

pinterest image with text overlay and a background image of a plant hanger

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20 Comments

  1. Love this and so fun to make.

  2. Hi Sarah,
    I love this pattern! I was thinking of making it and leaving a hole open at the bottom for drainage so that I don’t have to take my pot out to water it. Have you done this before? I’m thinking I would still use the magic circle to start then just not cinch it closed. Or maybe join chains instead of using the magic circle. Any thoughts? Thanks!

    1. Sarah Stearns says:

      Worth a try! I’d go with chain ring for the start.

  3. Hi Sarah,

    How do I finish this plant hanger off by connecting the cords at the top? Should I buy some wood rings to connect the cords to and hang it from? I’m unsure how to secure the top or in what way the cords are supposed connect.

    1. Sarah Stearns says:

      Hi Emily, I think a wooden ring would look great! I just tied mine with an overhand knot and hung it from a hook.

  4. Stephanie says:

    Hi there! I’m loving this pattern. Everything is going well so far except the pot I found is much taller, so I’m wondering the best way to add rounds to make it taller? Thank you in advance!!

    1. Sarah Stearns says:

      Hi Stephanie, If the pot has straight sides, you can just repeat the last few rows. If the pot has tapered sides, then you’ll have to adjust the pattern to accomodate the larger diameter. What I’d do is add extra chains to the arch sections, and then extra sc’s on the following rounds.

  5. Katy Moss says:

    Mine doesn’t stand up like yours 🙁

    1. Sarah Stearns says:

      Hi Katy, It doesn’t really need to stand up on its own, as long as it fits well around your pot!

  6. Hellen Riungu says:

    Hello
    Sarah you are indeed my support system in regards to crotcheting,knitting and what have you.You have made me love it more and more.Im indeed delighted

    Regards
    Hellen

  7. Stephanie says:

    Hi there,

    Just curious on your directions for making the bottom bigger. You said add a row of double crochet after the increase row. Do I need to do any more increasing rows or just double crochet rows to make it as big as I’d like?

    1. Sarah Stearns says:

      Hi Stephanie, You’ll want to add more rows following the crochet circle increase formula. For rounds of double crochet, that means increasing 12 times per round. So for this particular pattern, it would look like this:

      Round 4*: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), dc in same st, dc in next 2 sts, (2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts) 11 times, sl st into top of first dc to join. (48 sts)

    2. Stephanie says:

      @Sarah Stearns,

      Oh ok. That’s what I was wondering. Thank you for clarifying that for me. And just wanted to tell you I love this pattern. It’s so easy and fun! I’ve already made several small ones.

  8. Love this pattern, but I’m such a visual person. Is there a video on this pattern?

    Thanks

  9. hi sarah! i’m struggling a bit with the last few stitches of row 6…

    is the turning chain supposed to run up the middle of that chain space (once it’s joined)? it just looks inconsistent with the rest of the row and i’m worried i’ve made a mistake somewhere!

    thank you!

    1. Sarah Stearns says:

      Hi Jill,
      Yes, the turning chain does run up vertically in the middle of that arch space once joined. It sounds like you’ve got it right.

    2. @Sarah Stearns, ah wonderful, thank you very much!

  10. Thanks for this free pattern! Very clear instructions and great result. Just one question: are the hanging cords just knotted together at the top? Thanks!

    1. Sarah Stearns says:

      You’re welcome! And yes, I tied a simple overhand knot at the top. Thanks for the question.

    2. @Sarah Stearns, thank you 🙂

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